I’m not Greek or Cypriot…not even close, so I’m sure I’ll cop some flak for my version of their national dish. But this reminds me of home.
Scott says…
I’m not Greek or Cypriot…not even close, so I’m sure I’ll cop some flak for my version of their national dish. But this reminds me of home. I grew up in pubs in and around London for the first 23 years of my life and loved it. I can still smell the kitchens, the beer-soaked floors and towels. The din of noisy public bars were the background to my childhood. My folks ran “foodie pubs” way before they were even a thing, which exposed me to a diverse menu of delicious home-cooked comforting and familiar foods. The daily specials included coq au vin, beef stroganoff, and steak and kidney pie as well as this awesome heart‑warming moussaka. Customers would begin to fill the pub car park, having driven from far afield, 30 minutes before the doors opened just to get the first serving straight out of the ovens.
Years later, when I started The Good Farm Shop (a ready-meal business that prioritises animal welfare, land care and human health), I truly understood the influence that my mum and dad’s cooking had on my own food choices. The flavours, cuts and textures I loved as a kid are so pronounced on me now as an adult. Our first menu at The Good Farm Shop read like a menu from any one of the pubs where I grew up. This wasn’t a deliberate strategy but simply organic: I had learned flavours and techniques by osmosis. My home life was different to most of my friends’, but I loved growing up in pubs and wouldn’t change a thing. I cherish the influence my mum’s hearty home-cooking for customers has had on my culinary journey.
THE GOOD FARM COOKBOOK BY SCOTT GOODING AND MATILDA BROWN IS OUT NOW.
Moussaka
Ingredients
4 eggplants, trimmed and cut into 1cm slices
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 brown onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
2 tablespoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
¼ cup (60g) tomato paste
2kg minced lamb
3 × 400g tins diced tomatoes
For the White Sauce
50g butter
2 brown onions, sliced
¼ cup (45g) brown rice flour
4 cups (1 litre) full-cream milk
2 cups (200g) grated cheddar, plus extra grated cheese for topping
Method
Start by slow cooking the onions for the white sauce. Heat the butter in a small saucepan over low heat and add the onion. Cook for 30 minutes, or until the onion has softened, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the eggplant slices on a baking tray lined with baking paper, drizzle with a little of the olive oil, and season. Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until slightly softened, then remove from the oven and set aside. Meanwhile, heat the remaining olive oil in a large saucepan or frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 4–5 minutes. Add the herbs and cinnamon and stir. Add the tomato paste and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the mince and cook until well browned (or you can pre-brown the mince in batches in a separate frying pan), then add the tomatoes and season. Cook for another 30 minutes before removing from the heat.
Spoon enough mince mixture into a baking dish to evenly cover the base. Now add a layer of eggplant. Repeat the layers, finishing with a layer of eggplant. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Place the softened onion back over medium-low heat, add the flour and stir using a wooden spoon. Slowly add the milk, gently whisking as you go. Gradually add the cheese, whisking until it is well incorporated. Warm until the cheese has melted, then remove from the heat. Blitz the mixture with a stick blender until smooth and combined.
Remove baking dish from the fridge and gently pour the white sauce over the top. Sprinkle with extra grated cheese. Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until the top is beautifully browned. Allow to cool slightly before serving.
First published in Ed#721