Brown Poles

Pippa says…

This is a story about a controversial artwork, and a childhood spent licking bowls and pilfering the offcuts of my mother’s baking. My mum opened one of Canberra’s first cafes and was well known for her beautiful cakes, slices and quiches. I remember watching with fascination as she expertly curled chocolate off a marble slab for her black forest gateau, and grown-ups at school approached me about whether my mum would mind sharing a particular recipe.

One of mum’s slices featured slivered almonds set in caramel, finished with drizzles of dark chocolate. If I was lucky, I could scoff the trimmings as she sliced it up, ready for sale. I loved it so much my eyes lit up when I smelled it in the oven, and I could hardly wait for the chocolate to set. With its wholesome base of ground almonds and wholemeal flour, I could almost convince myself it was a health food, but the sweet, sweet caramel and chocolate were what I was really there for.

The artwork in this story is Jackson Pollock’s Blue poles, purchased by the newly established National Gallery of Australia for $1.3 million in 1973. The gallery’s director, James Mollison, was not authorised to purchase artworks over $1 million, so it had to be authorised by the Prime Minister – then Gough Whitlam. The ensuing uproar initially centred on the price tag, then expanded to attacks on the artwork, the artist and the gallery. History has shown it was a savvy purchase: current estimates place Blue poles’ value at $500 million, and the bold decision placed the NGA’s collection firmly in the sights of the international art world.

The story of Blue poles is part of Canberra folklore, and I fondly remember my first school trip to the gallery to see the painting. My mum named her slice Brown poles, poking fun at the furore and cementing the story in my head forever. I still love Brown poles because it’s simple to make, delicious to eat and it takes me back to a sweet, happy time in my life. I love my mum’s irreverent humour, and the power of food and art to shape a culture.

SWEET SEASONS BY PIPPA AND MICHAEL JAMES IS OUT NOW.

Brown Poles

Ingredients
Makes 20 slices

Base

60g unsalted butter, softened
110g raw (demerara) sugar
125g almonds, freshly ground
2 eggs, at room temperature
30g wholemeal (whole-wheat) flour

Topping

60g unsalted butter
75g caster sugar
80g honey
140g flaked almonds
20g water
100g dark chocolate (at least 60% cocoa)

Method

Preheat the oven to 190°C. Lightly grease and line a 20×30cm baking tray.

To make the base, cream together the butter and sugar in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, until pale. Add the almonds and mix until combined. With the mixer still running, add the eggs, one at a time, ensuring the first is fully incorporated before adding the second. Stop the mixer and scrape down the side of the bowl as required, to ensure the ingredients are well mixed. Add the flour and mix, then spread the mixture over the base of the baking tray. Bake for 10 minutes, until only just starting to colour at the edges, and then set aside to cool.

While the base is in the oven, make the almond topping. Combine the butter, sugar, honey, flaked almonds and water in a medium saucepan. Stir over a low heat without boiling, until the sugar is dissolved. Bring it up to a simmer and cook, uncovered and without stirring, for around 4–6 minutes, or until it starts to thicken.

When the base has cooled slightly, spread the topping over the base and bake for a further 10 minutes, until the almonds just start to colour. Allow to cool in the tin before transferring to a wire rack.

Once cool, melt the chocolate and use a spoon to drizzle it over the slice (channelling your inner Jackson Pollock!). Let the chocolate set and then cut the slice into 6×5cm rectangles.

This slice will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

TIP Try grinding dry roasted almonds into meal. The toasty flavour is wonderful with the sweet topping.

Published in ed#729

Bob Dylan

Brown Poles